Monday, September 28, 2009


The best thing about Parisian monuments, besides the ambiance they give to the city, is that usually there are at least a few in sight, and if you pay even a little bit of attention, you can triangulate your location almost anywhere in the city. Of course, this isn't necessary when you're at Sacré-Cœur (where I met Bobby, pictured above) since from there you get a view of the entire city:


The photo is a bit foggy, but in person it's a great view of the city, though it is second to the view from the upper floors of the Pompidou, which, oh bother, I'm going to have to go back to so I can get you some pictures!

Sacré-Cœur itself was looking mighty fine that afternoon. That's in the first photo below. The second captures, thanks to Sarah, the unique sensation of visiting the place:


Notice the hoards of tourists sitting on the steps behind her. They are listening to French-accented Bob Marley covers, and they are clapping. Doesn't the sheer majesty of the place just make you feel so pious?

Another monument I visited in the last few weeks that has a similar effect on people is Bastille:


Here it is pictured with several Parisian youths enjoying a fun-filled afternoon in the sun, at the conclusion of the all-day Techno Parade. These are some riot police also enjoying the pleasant weather nearby:


But don't worry Mom and Dad! It's a cultural thing. Anytime there is a strike, it's almost an insult to the strikers if the riot police don't show up. The workers would feel that they weren't being taken seriously if the State didn't make an appearance at their shin-dig. I'm not sure they usually pull out the tear gas on workers, but I couldn't ask, since I was out of the vicinity before that happened!

Speaking of which, I started half of my classes last week! I'll be taking two courses at the Sweet Briar College center with other students in my program and two of three classes at Université Paris III Sorbonne Nouvelle alongside French students. Those don't start until October 12, so in the meantime I have lots of free time to explore... or as the case may be mess around in photo shop with pictures of la Tour Eiffel:

Here's one of Emily and I sitting drinking grape juice in Champ de Mars:


I've also spent a lot of time in museums in the past couple weeks, but they mostly don't allow flash photography, and the photos I take usually come out less than stellar. I've been the la Maison de Gustave Moreau, le Louvre (twice) and the Pompidou for literally 15 minutes. We have plans in the works for Salvador Dali museum, and the d'Orsay. Right now I have to head off to class, so I'll leave you with the anonymous dog that always sits in the doorway of the mini-mart right across from where my classes are. Bonne journée!


Tuesday, September 15, 2009

La Tour Eiffel: A Study in Perspectives

I think there must be something about being in Paris that makes me take crappy photos. Is it just that everything is so beautiful to look at that any attempt to capture it on film falls short? In any case, I was already off to a bad start when I resorted to taking this shot through the bus window at a rest stop on the drive between Tours and Paris:
As such, I don't have a name for this rough-riding, motorcycling pooch, but what he lacks in title he more than makes up for in attitude.

I should also note here that the French even do rest-stops in style. The multi-level complex situated just about half-way between the two cities features a wide range of restaurants and snack bars on the inside, with a well-groomed "sculpture garden" out front. But enough about the drive over; I know what you really want to see:


I live in the 15th arrondissement, which means that to get just about anywhere on foot or by bus I have to (i.e. get to) walk by the Eiffel Tower. So, naturally, I have a lot of pictures of it.



The change in weather between them should be proof enough that these are all from different days. This shot is the view of Paris, Eiffel Tower in the background, from Point Neuf, the bridge that crosses over from the right bank to the left right at the tip of the island where Notre Dame is:



I'd tell you more about what I've been doing, but to be honest, these pictures really do say it all. I've spent the last three days wandering about the city, taking in the sites and sounds, blistering my feet, and loving every second of it. My classes at Sweet Briar don't start until Monday, and the ones at the Sorbonne until the 12 of October, so I'll have plenty more time to work out the kinks in my photography skills and practice the art of blending in. You wouldn't believe how excited I get when anyone stopes me on the street to ask for directions or when a server starts talking to me in French.

On one final note, I am sad to say that despite much walking about, I haven't really asked anyone if I can take a picture of their pooch. That didn't stop me from snagging a shot of this shaggy fellow as he trotted ahead of his owner across the street from where I was eating lunch today. Hope you enjoy!


Thursday, September 10, 2009

Au revoir, Tours!


During this last week in Tours, we've spent a lot of time picnicking on the Loire, absorbing as much French as possible during classes, and, of course, visiting more castles. We haven't been annoying too many French people, though they tend to look at us strangely whenever we break out into song (as we're wont to do, being American and all) or walk in too large of a group.


I also met Kiffe this past weekend. According to his male companion, he's the most handsome dog in Tours, so I was glad to get a chance to take a photo of him before I leave for Paris. This one is from La Gainguette, a river-side bar/restaurant/entertainment venue. These past weeks I've watched a Spike lee movie there, listened to an all female a capella group, and practiced my swing dancing moves at a rock-a-billy concert.

Last Saturday, we went to le Chateau de Chenonceaux:


You know, it's alright. Sometimes it goes a little overboard with the stunning beauty and magical atmosphere, but overall it is quite pleasant.






In addition, there was a Labyrinth, two really pretty gardens, and many forest-y trails all around the castle. I also met Benji, who's hobbies include barking at pigeons and gnawing on near-stranger's (i.e. my) arms affectionately. Note the unhappy European trying to hide:

French dog owners don't mind if I take a picture of them and their pooch, but strangers who are inadvertently in the shot certainly do! Fortunately, with my French skills improving a little bit every day (I can now say chickpeas and twilight, though today I accidentally said climate reheating, like reheating yesterdays dinner, instead of climate change, but baby steps, baby steps for sure), I'll soon by good enough to extract myself from almost any awkward situation. But what will perhaps remain the best response to solicitations by dripping strangers (who may have been asking for cigarettes or money or something more insidious) remains the brief, but forceful, all-America "No!" or as Kristen would have it, "Nope!" Only that word and admiration for a French person's dog cross all language barriers.

Wednesday, September 2, 2009

Bud and Kita

Bud at the vide de grenier

Meet Bud! He and his tattooed friend were strolling around the vide de grenier (like a flea market/garage sale) that I went to this Sunday to kill time after a bike ride along the Loire. I learned, in my brief interaction with Bud that not only do French people apparently not think it's rude for you to randomly ask to take a picture of their dog, but they'll even treat the dog like he's being rude for note acknowledging you properly!

While I didn't spot anything sure to win me $1000+ on the Antique Roadshow, myself and three other students did buy notebooks for our classes which started Monday. Classes run from 9:45 am until 1:45 pm, leaving us plenty of time to get into trouble after class. Last night, I saw The Time That Remains, a Palestinian movie largely in Hebrew and Arabic. I must have seemed confused when I was buying my ticket, because the salesperson made sure I knew the film wasn't in English... She apparently didn't have much faith in my ability to read French subtitles.

This disbelief in my ability to do much of anything is, in my 5 days worth of experience, a typical French reaction to Americans. I try not to take it too personally; Gita's (pictured below) Mom doesn't even think she can walk!

Gita at the vide de grenier

Renard.... is that a kind of cheese?

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À Tours! After a six and a half hour flight and a three hour bus ride, not much could seem charming, but Tours did. And after an hour nap, it was downright enchanting. My first day in Tours, I went for a walk in the area around my home-stay. I saw these flowers and these kangaroos in le Jardin Botanique:

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Unfortunately, I was still learning to bring my camera with me everywhere, and I don’t have any more pictures (you’re missing out on a shot of the cell phone I managed, entirely in French, to buy in Tours, a shot of my room in Tours, pictures of my first drink in a café in Tours, the first bathroom I used in Tours, the first time I sneezed in Tour, the first time a French person understood what I said in French in Tours, and lots of other incredible things) until we went to Le Château Royal d’Amboise and le Château de Cloux, also known as Clos Lucé (the house where De Vinci died) in Amboise!

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The first picture up above is of le Château Royal. To the left is a shot from across the river Loire, to the right one from a roof. Below those are photos of a really pretty salon inside the castle and then Sarah with her boyfriend.

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Clos Lucé was also very pretty:

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The models of Da Vinci’s inventions in the garden were a blast. Below is what most historians confuse for an early model of a tank with guns on each side that was actually a predecessor of the teacup ride at Disneyland. It spins:

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After our visit to Amboise we were all so tired we could only stay out until 4 am dancing. Oh well, there’s always next weekend!

As for the theme of this electronic journal, I was shy about asking to take pictures of people’s dogs, so instead I leave you with the cat on a leash that looks up at me from the balcony below!

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